![]() When you lay the vinyl next to the pieces over the bilge pieces, which I did not replace, you can't tell the difference. I did this using vinyl over 1/4" marine plywood. I sanded everything with 120 grit and then 220, and finally 400 grit Word to the wise (well helpful hint that I got from a cabinet guy) my first coat was 50-50 they say to do this because it will soak into the wood and bonds better and then 10% thinner to the amount of varnish you pour out every time to work with, all in all I have eight coats on the sole. The best part unlike West System you don't have to sand between coat it does not release the wax like WEST does, so two coats of that.įor the finish I used 1 gallon and a 1 quart of 2015 Pettit Flagship Varnish and a quart of 120 Pettit brushing thinner. I next expoxied all the edges and backside, I was going to use West System but, I tried the MAS EXPOXY Meduim Vicosity, it is really easier to use, not so critical on the mixture it is a 2 tp 1 ratio. I then got a bull nose bit to round out the backside so it fits into the pan. I THEN WENT TO A pOWER TOOL STORE THAT SELLS CABINETERY TOOLS AND SPENT $58.00 on a good bit, it made all the difference, besides even though the teak is only 1/8" thick and 1/4"lywood the teak will eat up the bit, meaning dull it out bby the time the job is done. I bought one from Lowes for $19.00, believe me it cut like a $19.00 bit. If you do this do your self a favor and spend the money on a good bit with a large bushing. I next got a pattern following router bit. I placed the old ones on top on new teak and holly (to me)lined up the holly and left 3/16" extra when I cut it. I have Pictures of cutting the teak and holly sole. So I went with Teak and Holly, Here is my story I really did not want to drill hole into the laminate, and on the other hand I did not want to fasten it with any type of glue or epoxy, or silcone to the pan. I did not use Loin Seal or a Laminite because I could not figure out how I was going to SECURE the sole to the pan. ![]() You'll end up saving a bit of money AND have yourself a new toy to play with. Get your router and bit at a decent hardware store, and you'll probably find a knowledgeable salesperson to help you. Just be sure to push your router into the direction it turns, not with it, so it doesn't get away from you. Why don't you get yourself a decent one, do a couple of practice runs on some 1/4" or 3/8" plywood, and then go for it? With the right bit, the worst you can do is stray away from the pattern, meaning that you won't mess up the piece you're working on, assuming you've clamped your pattern down properly. Keith, speaking as a carpenter (retired), I can tell you that with the right bit using a router is not that difficult. I plan to hire a carpenter with experience in the operation of the router so I get a nice even cut. To cut the plywood I will use the old cabin sole as a template and cut the new material with a router. I will coat the underside of the plywood with and epoxy to seal against moisture. I have attached the web page were I will purchase the plywood. I plan to replace the cabin sole with 6mm teak holly plywood.
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